Joe and I just returned from a wonderful trip to Red Rocks, with lovely company, our friends Leici and Ben. It was my first time climbing in Red Rocks and cruising the Vegas strip. Thanks to Leici and Ben, we were able to meet some great folks from Salt Lake City - Jon, Erin and Mike - who made the long drive to join us in our adventures in "Sin" City. Thankfully for me, the only things we really lusted for was the fabulous climbing and the ever-frugal "yard dogs", the best and cheapest way to get a buzz, while strutting the strip. By the time you start at Fat Tuesdays in the Miracle Mile Mall and end up on the other end of the strip at the Wynn Hotel, you'll be happily buzzed and very hungry.
Joe and I in front of the Vegas Eiffel Tower
That's pretty much how our first night in Vegas started. By the time we deplaned and arrived at the hotel, we were all starving. I really wanted to check out the strip, so we decided, well, why not? I was under the impression that we would first get dinner, followed by drinks. I was very wrong. Needless to say, we didn't get dinner ‘til midnight...
Ben, Leici, Joe and Jon during our exploration of the Strip
We started our second day, climbing at the Magic Bus area of Red Rocks. We jumped on a couple of 5.8 and 5.9 routes that had nice face holds - perfect for me! I realized one thing about getting to climbs in Red Rocks - it's never as easy as it looks. I had quite a workout during the four days that we spent there, mostly from the approaches. Lots of climbing over big boulders, occasional jumping across smaller slot canyons, etc.
Leici belaying Joe up a 5.8 sport route on Magic Bus
Joe on the 5.8 route on Magic Bus
Arun on the 5.8 route
After Magic Bus, Leici and Ben decided to take us to the Black Corridor, a really cool slot canyon, with tons of routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. I decided to take pictures and occasionally seek out the sun since it gets really cold in that part of the canyon. Joe, Ben, Leici and Jon got on some classic climbs, including Nightmare on Crude Street, a 5.10d up a series of huecos, and Rebel without a Pause, a bouldery 11b.
Leici, Ben, Joe and Jon in the Black Corridor
Jon on a cool, bouldery climb
Joe on another bouldery climb with cool huecos
A busy cragging day at Black Corridor
Leici working Friend (5.10d)
We ended our climbing day with some delicious Japanese food, off the strip, where we met up with Jason and Chris on their own Vegas-Red Rocks extravaganza – check it out here: http://zclipped.com/?p=196
Joe always gets super stoked to take me on multi-pitch moderate climbs; it was no different this time around except one thing – no cracks! Joe had been raving for months that I would absolutely love the climbs in Red Rocks since a lot of them have great face holds. Give me face holds over cracks any day (shh…don’t tell Joe!). On our third day, we decided to climb Olive Oil on Rose Tower – four pitches of moderate (5.7) trad route. From the night before, Jason and Chris warned us that the last bit of the approach would require some creative maneuvering around large boulders, prickly bushes, and tunneling through hard spaces. By the time we arrived at the base of the climb, my heart rate was elevated and my thighs were screaming with pain.
Arun on Olive Oil (5.7)
There was a party ahead of us that was moving a little to slow for us. Usually it’s Joe, who wants to overtake slower parties en route. Surprisingly, even for me, this time I was the one who was itching to get on and hustle through this climb. As Joe had predicted for months, I ended loving this climb. I felt confident and strong, and the exposure actually didn’t bother me. The last pitch consisted of a narrow chimney, which in retrospect, I must have made way narrower. There were points where I was literally stuck. I suppose that’s one way to get over my fear of falling! I really enjoyed climbing the chimney pitch, a pleasant surprise to Joe.
Arun and Joe on top of Olive Oil climb, a few hours before sunset
A successful climbing day with Joe encouraged me to get a “Yard dog” of my own that night! Erin and Mike joined our outing to strip this time. Some of the night’s highlights included a poor gambling attempt at The Bellagio Hotel, Joe having to vigorously convince the group about a waterfall, apparently under which we could walk, and a foiled attempt to go dancing at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino.
The water fountain in front of the Bellagio Hotel, programmed to "dance" to a selection of classic songs
(From top left) Leici, Jon, Mike (hiding), Erin, Ben, Arun and Joe. Our half attempt at gambling: Joe lost $3 and Jon lost $10.
Arun and I are playing some blog post tag so I'm taking over from here. After another fun night, the 6 of us headed up to the Gallery for more fun bolt clipping. We started out on a couple 5.10 face climbs on the left side of the wall. The crimps and small, in-cut flakes offered some fun, pumpy climbing at the grade. However, the crowds soon overcame the area and a line formed for the classic 12a Fear and Loathing steep jug haul.
Joe giving it a go on the Gift (5.12c)
In an attempt to get on Yaak Crack in the meantime, I threw my rope down below the Gift (12c), thinking it was the 11c I was looking for. With a little encouragement from Erin, Leici, and Arun, I jumped on it but obviously lacked the right head space...maybe I don’t trust permadraws, traverses or steep climbs? Either way, I didn't make it look fun enough for Erin to climb (crush) it. Despite the half attempt, I joined the crew for a single round on Fear and Loathing.
Joe working Fear and Loathing
Despite the hangs, I really enjoyed the climbing and will be coming back some day for the RP. After wishing farewell to Mike and Erin, we searched out Mediterranean food and my first hookah.
Wrapping up climbing for the day and wishing Erin and Mike a warm farewell
Last day - fourth day of climbing, with two nights of yard dogs, was taking its toll. Yet, we had another canyon to explore on the other side of Kraft Mountain. We hiked by some popular bouldering spots and I pointed out pictographs and agave roasting pits along the way, from the archaeology tour that I had taken during the Climbing Management Conference. Not all of us were enjoying the long hike in, but everyone was enjoying the quietness compared to previous busy days and the beautiful desert oasis.
Joe leading Mr. Choad's Wild Ride (5.11b)
After some searching, we finally made it to Sunny and Steep. Despite the blazing sun, I got super excited about jumping on Mr. Choad's Wild Ride, an 11b, 105-foot bolted climb. It was full on (no grid bolting here) sustained and super technical, despite the occasional rest. "Slopey crimpers" was a common descriptor for many of the holds. Ward Smith from Massachusetts developed the area, taking the time to install glue-in, eye bolts, which will stand the test of time compared to regular expansion bolts. Needless to say, Ward and friends established a fine route. While others climbed a not-so-classic 5.9, I took two hangs on lead. After seeing a lonely set of rap bolts and reading that it was over 100 feet long, I belayed Ben up so that he could belay Leici.
Ben following on Mr. Choad!
Coming down to seek shade, I warned Leici that it would be a finisher to our day, the entire trip, and our sore bodies.
Moonrise over the Kraft Mountain area
We wrapped up the trip with another round at Ronald’s before grabbing a burrito and catching our plane. There will definitely be a repeat of Red Rocks - Vegas hooligans in 2011 - stay tuned!
Sunset and moonrise as we hike out, on our final day at Red Rocks
Final cross-country road trip from NY to WA with Gerry, where we met up with Vijay on his trip back east for a few days of climbing at City of Rocks, ID:
Hat's off pal, you'll be missed
