Hard to Say...

What's not hard to say is that we had sunny skies and t-shirt weather in late September at 13,000 feet on Mt. Evans this past weekend. After a weekend with Team Mammut on Mt. Baker in full white out snow storm conditions, Dougald MacDonald and I met up again for some more cooperative alpine conditions in the Rockies.

We printed out MP beta on a few climbs but after a short scout along the base of the Tan Buttresses opposite the Black Wall, we chose a line that led to a beautiful ridgeline between Astro Goat and Musafar's Home Cookin'. We had info on Astro Goat but not Musafar's at the time.

Starting the first pitch, it was hard to say where we were going to end up, hence the name. After negotiating some loose rock at the start, I pulled over a small roof and continued up the shallow corner to another roof. I finagled some small gear below before laybacking up the arete where the crack closed off, stemming and finding just enough gear to motivate upward progression. A short traverse and splitter small hands crack led to a ledge. 5.10. So far so good.
Dougald headed up the second pitch, climbing cracks and flakes towards a steep and attractive arete above. He crossed over the arete to find a beautiful face crack. After contemplating his remaining gear, he climbed up balancy terrain to a small roof. A great find and a stellar pitch! 5.9.
After a short tiered roof of sandy horizontals, a beautiful double crack continued up ridge proper. Moderate climbing over fun flakes reminded me of the North Ridge of Stuart in the Cascades. 5.8 and its no longer hard to say, the ridge eased up and fun climbing continued ahead.

From the 4th pitch onward, we climb previously traveled ground as for Musafar's Home Cookin'. Dougald climbed a short chimney and dagger flake to gain more fun ridge climbing similar to the Flying Buttress on Meeker. Goat Food also meets back up on the ridge crest for the 5th and final low-fifth ridge traverse.

Hard to Say, 5 pitches, 5.10, ground up trad (in blue)

Its 1:45, still sunny, and there is plenty of time to get back to town for a fun evening out. Cary Granite, Road Warrior, and Good Evans looked amazing and I can't wait to take another trip to climb on Mt. Evans.

In fact, Arun and I took a leisurely tour the next day, taking photos of Summit Lake, an 1000+ year old stand of Bristlecone pines, Echo Lake, and aspen stands on the way back down:

Quite a ride

...on the Joy Ride!

10 months and 6 trips to Coney Island later, I convinced Arun to meet me at work for a quick trip up the canyon. The weather was stellar and the route would be in the shade, but I couldn't convince a partner to get on it with me; others had Easter Island, Oceanic Wall, and Sherwood Forest on the mind. I made it clear it was Coney Island or bust for me. I felt good after working The Ticket on Saturday and climbing the full Naked Edge on Sunday with Mr. Briggs. We swapped leads - I led the first pitch clean (wahoo!) and followed Roger on the spicy chimney pitch - a classic climb with a classic guy!

First a little more history on why I became obsessed with the Joy Ride. On my first try with Jason last August, I didn't get to the last bolt on my first attempt - two sections were super reachy. I didn't even get it clean on TR, but the moves were awesome, the foot skills super technical, and the rock just fine. We went back with Shane a week later and both Shane and Jason style the RP and show me how its done.

Shane cranking the first crux move over the roof

Jason agreed to feed my need the next week and we headed back. Despite a poor state of mind, I jump on it a second time. The roof move is now on cruise control and I finally figured out a short dude's sequence for the reachy move at the 4th bolt. After sticking the 3rd and final crux, I blow the clip attempting to lock off and reach high. My forearm juice crystalizes and I take the fall after 5 minutes of deliberation. Ideally, I would have made a few more moves and clipped it higher, but my fear of falling was too great. I was climbing it for the wrong reasons.

Long story short, I developed a shoulder injury, initiated PT, and associated the climb with my shoulder pain, so I shelved it for the year. 7 months later, I returned to it before my trip to the Ruth Gorge and knew I had to change my approach: not to get to the top clean or tick it off the list, but for the personal growth it would bring. On an early May return with Brendan, I climbed it with one hang between cruxes when my fingers went numb. With the lack of a good warmup in sub-70 temps, my fingers had no chance.

With my lovely fiance at the belay this evening, I head up with the idea of warming up, taking a practice fall, and hanging the draws. As I step off the ground, I let out my usual flatulence, but this time I let it fly a little too far. With some TP and hand sanitizer on hand (thanks hun), the damage was manageable. A few minutes later, I was depressurized and back on the climb with my mojo unfettered. I kept thinking I would take a fall or a hang as part of a warmup run, but the moves came together and the fingers did not fall asleep. Soon enough I was on the ledge. At this point, I let the pump in my right arm subside and worked out the upper crux moves in my head. But the anticipation returned and a rising heart rate sneaked up on me. Boulder Creek raged below and I realized that if the water could flow so easily (along with my flatulence), why couldn't I. Arun smiled up, I embarked, struggled a bit with the sequence but committed and hit the jug. Instead of reaching high and blowing the clip, I made a couple more 5.10 moves and clipped the bolt at my thigh. I reached the anchors, called it a day with a huge grin, and we drove back to town to shop for our future kitten. Thanks for all the good vibes everyone!

PSYCHED!

But kiwis don't fly

Uno: My sister had a baby girl! Samantha Noelle Rush: 6 lbs 12 ounces and healthy:

Dos: American Alpine Journal posted a report by Blake Herrington on our route Flight of the Kiwi from August 2010 found here:


Tres: Its been a fun mix of ice and rock climbing in the last month - here are a few highlights:

Arun's first ice climb at Ouray!

Jason leading Cabin Fever in Cody, WYJason on the beautiful ice of Wyoming Wave above Cabin Fever

Chris and Doug heading up the final rambling pitches of Sendero to join the party, Cody

Echo Cliffs, Santa Monica Mountains
SoCal Bouldering
Serpentine on Weeping Wall at Tahquitz and Suicide - slabalicious!

Viva, Red Rocks (and Vegas, of course)!

Joe and I just returned from a wonderful trip to Red Rocks, with lovely company, our friends Leici and Ben. It was my first time climbing in Red Rocks and cruising the Vegas strip. Thanks to Leici and Ben, we were able to meet some great folks from Salt Lake City - Jon, Erin and Mike - who made the long drive to join us in our adventures in "Sin" City. Thankfully for me, the only things we really lusted for was the fabulous climbing and the ever-frugal "yard dogs", the best and cheapest way to get a buzz, while strutting the strip. By the time you start at Fat Tuesdays in the Miracle Mile Mall and end up on the other end of the strip at the Wynn Hotel, you'll be happily buzzed and very hungry.

Joe and I in front of the Vegas Eiffel Tower

That's pretty much how our first night in Vegas started. By the time we deplaned and arrived at the hotel, we were all starving. I really wanted to check out the strip, so we decided, well, why not? I was under the impression that we would first get dinner, followed by drinks. I was very wrong. Needless to say, we didn't get dinner ‘til midnight...

Ben, Leici, Joe and Jon during our exploration of the Strip

We started our second day, climbing at the Magic Bus area of Red Rocks. We jumped on a couple of 5.8 and 5.9 routes that had nice face holds - perfect for me! I realized one thing about getting to climbs in Red Rocks - it's never as easy as it looks. I had quite a workout during the four days that we spent there, mostly from the approaches. Lots of climbing over big boulders, occasional jumping across smaller slot canyons, etc.

Leici belaying Joe up a 5.8 sport route on Magic Bus

Joe on the 5.8 route on Magic Bus

Arun on the 5.8 route

After Magic Bus, Leici and Ben decided to take us to the Black Corridor, a really cool slot canyon, with tons of routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. I decided to take pictures and occasionally seek out the sun since it gets really cold in that part of the canyon. Joe, Ben, Leici and Jon got on some classic climbs, including Nightmare on Crude Street, a 5.10d up a series of huecos, and Rebel without a Pause, a bouldery 11b.

Leici, Ben, Joe and Jon in the Black Corridor

Jon on a cool, bouldery climb

Joe on another bouldery climb with cool huecos

A busy cragging day at Black Corridor

Leici working Friend (5.10d)

We ended our climbing day with some delicious Japanese food, off the strip, where we met up with Jason and Chris on their own Vegas-Red Rocks extravaganza – check it out here: http://zclipped.com/?p=196

Joe always gets super stoked to take me on multi-pitch moderate climbs; it was no different this time around except one thing – no cracks! Joe had been raving for months that I would absolutely love the climbs in Red Rocks since a lot of them have great face holds. Give me face holds over cracks any day (shh…don’t tell Joe!). On our third day, we decided to climb Olive Oil on Rose Tower – four pitches of moderate (5.7) trad route. From the night before, Jason and Chris warned us that the last bit of the approach would require some creative maneuvering around large boulders, prickly bushes, and tunneling through hard spaces. By the time we arrived at the base of the climb, my heart rate was elevated and my thighs were screaming with pain.

Arun on Olive Oil (5.7)

There was a party ahead of us that was moving a little to slow for us. Usually it’s Joe, who wants to overtake slower parties en route. Surprisingly, even for me, this time I was the one who was itching to get on and hustle through this climb. As Joe had predicted for months, I ended loving this climb. I felt confident and strong, and the exposure actually didn’t bother me. The last pitch consisted of a narrow chimney, which in retrospect, I must have made way narrower. There were points where I was literally stuck. I suppose that’s one way to get over my fear of falling! I really enjoyed climbing the chimney pitch, a pleasant surprise to Joe.

Arun and Joe on top of Olive Oil climb, a few hours before sunset

A successful climbing day with Joe encouraged me to get a “Yard dog” of my own that night! Erin and Mike joined our outing to strip this time. Some of the night’s highlights included a poor gambling attempt at The Bellagio Hotel, Joe having to vigorously convince the group about a waterfall, apparently under which we could walk, and a foiled attempt to go dancing at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino.

The water fountain in front of the Bellagio Hotel, programmed to "dance" to a selection of classic songs

(From top left) Leici, Jon, Mike (hiding), Erin, Ben, Arun and Joe. Our half attempt at gambling: Joe lost $3 and Jon lost $10.

Arun and I are playing some blog post tag so I'm taking over from here. After another fun night, the 6 of us headed up to the Gallery for more fun bolt clipping. We started out on a couple 5.10 face climbs on the left side of the wall. The crimps and small, in-cut flakes offered some fun, pumpy climbing at the grade. However, the crowds soon overcame the area and a line formed for the classic 12a Fear and Loathing steep jug haul.

Joe giving it a go on the Gift (5.12c)

In an attempt to get on Yaak Crack in the meantime, I threw my rope down below the Gift (12c), thinking it was the 11c I was looking for. With a little encouragement from Erin, Leici, and Arun, I jumped on it but obviously lacked the right head space...maybe I don’t trust permadraws, traverses or steep climbs? Either way, I didn't make it look fun enough for Erin to climb (crush) it. Despite the half attempt, I joined the crew for a single round on Fear and Loathing.

Joe working Fear and Loathing

Despite the hangs, I really enjoyed the climbing and will be coming back some day for the RP. After wishing farewell to Mike and Erin, we searched out Mediterranean food and my first hookah.

Wrapping up climbing for the day and wishing Erin and Mike a warm farewell

Last day - fourth day of climbing, with two nights of yard dogs, was taking its toll. Yet, we had another canyon to explore on the other side of Kraft Mountain. We hiked by some popular bouldering spots and I pointed out pictographs and agave roasting pits along the way, from the archaeology tour that I had taken during the Climbing Management Conference. Not all of us were enjoying the long hike in, but everyone was enjoying the quietness compared to previous busy days and the beautiful desert oasis.

Joe leading Mr. Choad's Wild Ride (5.11b)

After some searching, we finally made it to Sunny and Steep. Despite the blazing sun, I got super excited about jumping on Mr. Choad's Wild Ride, an 11b, 105-foot bolted climb. It was full on (no grid bolting here) sustained and super technical, despite the occasional rest. "Slopey crimpers" was a common descriptor for many of the holds. Ward Smith from Massachusetts developed the area, taking the time to install glue-in, eye bolts, which will stand the test of time compared to regular expansion bolts. Needless to say, Ward and friends established a fine route. While others climbed a not-so-classic 5.9, I took two hangs on lead. After seeing a lonely set of rap bolts and reading that it was over 100 feet long, I belayed Ben up so that he could belay Leici.

Ben following on Mr. Choad!

Coming down to seek shade, I warned Leici that it would be a finisher to our day, the entire trip, and our sore bodies.

Moonrise over the Kraft Mountain area

We wrapped up the trip with another round at Ronald’s before grabbing a burrito and catching our plane. There will definitely be a repeat of Red Rocks - Vegas hooligans in 2011 - stay tuned!

Sunset and moonrise as we hike out, on our final day at Red Rocks